48 (fabulous) Hours in Berlin

With no clue as to what to expect (and with a bit of trepidation), EDGE travel editor Jason Salzenstein recently visited Berlin, Germany. What he found completely blew him away and after four short days he already knew that he needed to return as soon as possible. World class museums, stunning architecture, excellent food, one of the most diverse and rich nightlife scenes in the world, and of course the city's storied past all combine to make Berlin a destination that should be at the top of your list.

Here's his take on the Zeitgeist Metropolis

If you haven't yet visited Berlin, you haven't seen the world. The city is extremely diverse, full of energy, and truly one of the most exciting and cosmopolitan cities in the world. With her modern museums, trend setting architecture, genre-defying theatre, cutting edge fashion, mainstream and underground music scenes, and pervasive energetic funkiness, Berlin is now almost universally regarded as the new cultural capital of Europe. There are currently so many incredible things happening in Berlin right now that it's nearly impossible to keep up.

In 2008, the city celebrated the 60th anniversary of the Berlin Airlift, and 2009 marked the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Wall. (If you're around my age, this is when you start feeling old...) Today's Berlin is the dynamic, cosmopolitan and creative capital of reunited Germany; a city where every kind of lifestyle is not just tolerated, but embraced and celebrated.

Berlin's cityscape reflects the history of architecture, a unique one that highlights the creative approaches used to deal with the consequences of war and destruction, and most notably the desire to look towards the future and embrace it with open arms. Berlin is a cutting edge metropolis where art, architecture, fashion and culture collide; a city of the future, visibly influenced by its dramatic past.

A checkered past... and fabulous future

From 1961 until 1989, the Berlin Wall separated East from West. Not just a physical blockade, the Berlin wall was a social, political and ideological barrier, effectively isolating East Germany from the western world. When the wall came down that November day, a new era was born- and with it a chance for redemption, reconciliation, and Cultural Revolution such as the world had never seen before.

What makes Berlin so special? Like most other Germans, Berliners are a very forward-looking people as indicated by a philosophy and lifestyle reflected in all aspects of their culture. From architecture and art to restaurants and human rights, this is a society bent on paving the way and setting the example for the rest of the world. To call Berlin 'progressive' would be a major understatement.

Heritage

For many Americans - even those of mixed descent who might not initially think so - Germany represents part of our familial heritage, and there are great resources and travel options available to help you learn more about your German ancestors. Being Jewish, I was apprehensive about what I might uncover, but it turns out that my distant relatives' histories are much more diverse than I expected.

From private heritage and family tree tours to extensive resources like the Archives Project at the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and the library and research center at the Jewish Museum, history and genealogy buffs - as well as interested descendants - will find a wealth of information.

Gay Berlin

All of Berlin is gay-friendly, and it's undoubtedly one of the "gayest" cities in the world in terms of acceptance and integration. There's no single "gay area" in Berlin; gay shops, cafes, restaurants and bars can be found throughout the greater metropolitan area. That said, there are three neighborhoods where the LGBT population tends to be most noticeable: Schoneberg (to the north), where you'll find more of the classic gay scene; Kreuzberg, where the more alternative nightlife and culture rests; and Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin's version of SoHo, which has 'a trendy flair.'

Gay nightlife in Berlin is off the hook - you can (literally) find anything - and everything - you're looking for if you know where to look. Since there are so many more options than I could ever present, it's best to simply pick up the Berlin von hinten (gay city guide) from Bruno Gmunder before you leave or one of the two major gay magazines - Sergej or Siegessaule - when you arrive.

Next :: Where to eat, sleep, and play!

SLEEP :: From bargain flats to five-star finery

Steigenberger

Reflecting the diversity among bars and clubs, Berlin has accommodation options for every taste and budget. From simple flats for less than 50 Euros a night to luxurious penthouses in the sky that run 5,000 Euros plus, it's all here.

When deciding on where to stay, the Visit Berlin website is a great place to start- they've got listings for more than 350 hotels and guesthouses in the city, all with a Best-Rate-Guarantee*. If you prefer to use a gay search or guide, Berlin von hinten is an excellent resource.

In the name of research (sacrificing my convenience for EDGE readers' benefit- said with a dramatic flair and back of my hand on my forehead), I stayed at two hotels, and found them both more than adequate. I started at the Steigenberger Hotel, which I especially liked because of its central location and proximity to "Kurf�rstendamm," the fabulous shopping avenue. A large hotel focused on great (but unassuming) service, the Steigenberger offers everything you'd expect from a five-star hotel: comfortable, well designed rooms with high speed internet, two restaurants, two bars, 24-hour room service, and a fitness center with swimming pool and massage.

For more information on the Steigenberger, click here

Hotel Maritim

My second stay took me to the Hotel Maritim - a very nice option that would fall in the same category as a high-end American chain, if a little nicer and with more of a European feel. Located on the Tiergarten park, it's not too far from the Kurf�rstendamm or nearby Potsdam Square.

A large hotel, it's well appointed, with all the usual features - comfortable rooms at a range of price/luxury levels, two restaurants and a bar, high speed internet and a health club. Impressively, the hotel is sensitive to those with special needs; there are a number of rooms specially designed for handicapped guests as well as those with allergies (right down to different sets of body/skincare products for the latter).

All in all a good choice; comfortable without being overly fancy or frou-frou. Prices are reasonable, with seasonal package deals and other info available here

The ARCOTEL John F.

A hotel of particular interest to history buffs and those who appreciate some unusual design/decoration is the Arcotel John F. Conveniently located in the government quarter, it's a 4-star superior establishment and is absolutely gorgeous. As you might guess from the name, many of the hotel's design elements are inspired by John F. Kennedy and the historical era associated with him.

The hotel offers all the usual conveniences you'd expect in a luxury hotel, including 190 superbly designed rooms and suites, cable TV, wireless internet and so on. More unusual are the JFK-centric fixtures in the rooms- a motif that runs throughout the hotel, especially noticeable in the dark wood and marble floors. You'll also find a few special touches in many rooms; replicas of Kennedy's rocking chair, lampshades inspired by the former First Lady's wardrobe...the list goes on! Special themed rooms take this a step further; The Kennedy Room incorporates Oval Office styled drapings, American flags and a bedroom modeled after the Kennedys' White House equivalent.

Alcohol aficionados should take note that the hotel bar claims to possess the widest variety of high quality bourbons in Berlin.

Ich bin ein Berliner...

For those visitors with an interest in the Kennedys that exceeds the average (!), the special Kennedys package is probably for you. It includes 2 nights in one of the themed Kennedy rooms, breakfast buffets, welcome drinks ("The Sparkling Joe"!) as well as free entrance to the Kennedys Museum (described later in this article) and a personal tour of the collection.

Next :: Where to eat

EAT :: A bit of everything

A Dozen Michelin Stars Shine in Berlin’s Gourmet Heavens

Dining options in Berlin reflect the overall character of the city: dynamic, diverse and exciting. Accordingly, there are options for every kind of visitor, from run-and-gun fast food fans to those who prefer high-end gourmet cuisine.

Kicking off the food section with a little bit of third party validation for Berlin's fabulous culinary scene, the 2009 edition of the Michelin Hotel & Restaurant Guide awarded twelve stars to the city's gourmet restaurants. Only 30 restaurants in Germany have received two or three stars.

In 2009, three Michelin stars went to the Hotel Adlon for its restaurants - Ma Tim Raue (pictured) with its food inspired by Chinese cuisine, the Italian restaurant Gabriele with chef Bj�rn Alexander Panek, and Lorenz Adlon for chef Thomas Neeser's French cuisine.

Go veggie!

Speaking of haute cuisine, even carnivores will be blown away by the flavor and presentation at Cookies Cream (pictured), an organic vegetarian restaurant in the Behrenstrasse neighborhood. The chef has created an impressive menu of gastronomic cuisine that would put a Parisian restaurant to shame, however, unlike its French cousins, CC offers this fab dining experience without the snotty pretentiousness you'd find � Paris. The icing on the cake? You can get a truly gourmet three-course tasting menu for about $28- an incredible bargain for food this good. After dinner - depending on how late you're eating - you can head downstairs to the club.

Editor's note :: Like many great restaurants, bars and clubs in Berlin, Cookies and Cream is set back in an alley behind the Westin Grand on Behrenstrasse; make sure you know where you're going before heading out, and if you still can't find it, ask at the hotel.

Other great veggie and health-conscience options include Gorilla, Naturlich FastFood, (Germany's first organic fast food chain), Yellow Sunshine (vegan and vegetarian burgers, fries, muffins and other fast favorites), Fresh 'N' Friends (a 24-hour organic supermarket and boutique restaurant chain that emphasizes fresh, regional, and organic ready-to-eat foods, fair trade practices, and sustainability), and finally Foodorama (Bergmansstra�e), the first certified "climate-neutral" organic restaurant; they use seasonal and regional products, and operate in thermally insulated rooms.

Dinner & a drink with a side of ’wow’

For a great restaurant with an equally impressive view, hit up Solar, arriving just before sundown. You'll kill two birds with one stone too- not only are their drinks fab, but the restaurant is located on the 17th floor and offers a great way to see the city. The upstairs lounge is a great place to relax and have a few drinks.

Don't worry: Berlin offers plenty of options for diners on a budget- and given the economy today, this is pretty much everyone. To start with - literally - consider indulging in breakfast at your hotel; most offer fabulous (and large) spreads of gourmet breads and other goodies, which often include local cheeses and other regional products- usually at a good price. Lunch specials at many popular restaurants offer the opportunity to experience a gourmet meal for a more reasonable price, often with the same menu as dinner, just smaller portions. You can usually find specials posted outside restaurants featuring a salad, main, and dessert for less than 15 Euros.

Another way to save is to choose restaurants that aren't in the middle of tourist hot-spots; ask your concierge - or the person next to you on the subway - about great local places. You'll get to (briefly) live like a local while saving money! The Berlin Welcome Card also offers discounts on local spots.

Of course Berlin's also got a slew of restaurants with international flavor, and not simply the standard pizza, pasta, Chinese take-out or meat-on-a-skewer-in-a-window variety. Offerings include cuisine from Scandinavia, Africa, the Himalayas, and the Australian Outback. And if you simply must have American food, don't worry- they've got a Tony Roma's.

When dining out, keep in mind that like the rest of Europe, service and tax are included in the price you see on the menu. Most people round-up the bill (5-10%) for good service, but don't feel like you must; servers in Germany are actually paid a living wage- a novel concept for us Americans!

Next :: What to do

DO

The Grand Tour

As cheesy as they are, I'm a big fan of the all-encompassing bus tours you find in every major European city. Yes, you have to deal with a large and random group of mostly older, dorky tourists for a couple hours, but it's worth it, so suck it up. These bus tours are often the best way to get a quick and thorough overview of the city, and they help you get your bearings. They're also extremely helpful in deciding which major draws and activities you want to do. Just make sure you have a good city map before you get on the bus, and follow along on the map as you make your way around the city, taking note of things you want to return to and circling locations as you go.

There are a few large bus tours in Berlin; I went on the City Circle Sightseeing tour with Berolina and was very happy with it.

A private tour

On the opposite end of the spectrum, a small private tour will give you insight into parts of the city that you'd never be able to see on your own or as part of a big group tour. If VIP access suits your fancy, Berlinagenten offers a small handful of fabulous private and small-group "lifestyle tours," including the quirky Urban Living Tour, ARTtours, and tours that focus on gourmet food, chocolate, Jewish Berlin, the 20's, the Wall, and more.

Berlinagenten's guides act as "friends on-site," giving you exclusive access to private homes (to see how a few fabulous, eccentric, and well-known Berliners actually live), exclusive clubs, and unique shops, restaurants, people and culture that you won't find in any guide book. For more info: www.berlinagenten.com or www.gastro-rallye.com

If you've got the patience to deal with their Flash-laden website (I didn't), Movin' Queer Berlin offers a city tour that focuses on women's and lesbian history, along with some other travel services that I didn't have the patience to explore. Sta*Tours Berlin offers the Tracing Marlene's Footsteps tour; a must for Dietrich fans...

Tiergarten

Right in the middle of the city lies Tiergarten, an enormous park much like New York's Central Park. Two major differences? In Tiergarten you can enjoy a glass of wine, and you can take your clothes off.

Yes, you read that correctly; thanks to Germany's progressive nature, adults in Germany are allowed to act like adults, and make grown-up decisions. (Of course most German adults also actually act like grown-ups, not oversized frat boys.) Picnics in public parks can include champagne, beer, and other libations- and you won't get arrested. Likewise, so long as it doesn't disturb anyone, nude sunbathing (even sex!) is perfectly legal in public. In fact, the former is fairly common in Tiergarten in summer months, so don't be shocked if you turn a corner and discover a small field full of people en repose, et au naturel. (It was a bit cold when I was there so I didn't partake; but next time...)

Of course, aside from drinking and dropping trou, Tiergarten is also a great place to walk, ride a bike, read a book, and learn about history. The park houses many parliamentary and governmental buildings, including the German Chancellery and the residence of the German president. It's also the site of a large number of famous sculptures and memorials, including the Brandenburg Gate and Potsdamer Platz. Grab a map from your hotel and plan to spend an afternoon exploring.

Next :: The Wall, Checkpoint Charlie, and more things to do

The Wall

You're in Berlin; one of the first things to see is the wall- and with good reason: the history surrounding it is incredibly fascinating. November 9, 2009 marked the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. This milestone brought with it numerous special events and exhibitions related to the division of Germany and Berlin, the Cold War, and the circumstances leading to reunification, many of which are still open and available to the public.

Good or bad, most of the wall has been dismantled and destroyed, partly for souvenirs, although primarily for practical reasons, given that it essentially cut the city in half. A few remains can still be seen, however, at the East Side Gallery (Bernauer StraBe, next to the PreuBischer Landtag) and in Prenzlauer Berg.

The best way to experience the history and importance of the Wall - and what it meant to Berlin and its inhabitants - is to first explore the Berlin Wall History Trail, ending at the Checkpoint Charlie Museum. GPS-guided walking tours and guided or self-guided bicycle tours that follow the Wall path are the easiest (and most informative) way to experience the trail; while you're there, you may also want to throw in a visit to underground Berlin as well. Along the path you'll find information columns at prominent places, which provide audio insight about the history, victims, and particular events related to the specific location of each column.

For more information on the special events surrounding the anniversary, go to www.MauerFall09.de

Checkpoint Charlie

An absolute must-visit is the Checkpoint Charlie Museum, so called after the nickname given by the Western Allies to the oft-used crossing point in the Wall between East and West Germany. Founded in 1962 by ex-resistance fighter Rainer Hildebrandt, it's a fascinating and extensive collection of artifacts and relics. Since its opening, it has evolved into (in Hildebrandt's words) "the first museum of international non-violent protest," and artifacts on view include Mahatma Gandhi's diary and Andrei Sakharov's death mask (!).

Plan to spend at least a few hours here, especially if you're a history buff. There's so much to explore, examine and read and you won't want to give any of it short shrift. Even those not especially engaged in the history of the area will probably find themselves drawn in by the well constructed accounts of the various escape attempts from East Germany. You'll leave the place astounded by how much of a key point this area was in the standoff between East and West during the Cold War.

Art & Architecture

Of course there are dozens of incredible museums in Berlin, and you should definitely visit at least a few based on your personal interests. Plan ahead, buy a Berlin Welcome Card (see PRACTICAL INFO on the last page), and hit up as many museums as you have time for). Stop by one of the tourism offices located throughout the city, where you can pick up Museums and Palaces: Art and History, among dozens of other great guides. They're all free. Since I was only in town for two days I had to be very selective.

A fan of mid-century style, I couldn't pass up the Bauhaus Archiv Museum of Design (Klingelh�ferstra�e, 10785 Tiergarten). The movement was the impetus for modern design as we know it, and this museum does an incredible job of highlighting the history of the Bauhaus school of design, shedding light on the way the movement shaped the future and continues to shape design today. The iconic pieces in the museum are stunning and for students of architecture, the archive is even more impressive. An added bonus is the fact that the museum is fairly small; most casual design aficionados could do it in about an hour.

Next :: A gay museum, a bit of history, and nightlife!

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The Schwules Museum (pictured; Mehringdamm 61, 10961) should also be at the top of your list. One of the few gay museums in the world, it's unique, fascinating, and often hosts special shows and events. For more info: www.SchwulesMuseum.de

True to its status as a center of world culture, Berlin also contains some excellent museums that are dedicated to subject matter of a more 'international' nature. One highlight is the Ramones Museum, the only one of its kind. Founded in 2005, it reopened in 2008 at a new location in Berlin-Mitte. Punk fans should find much to interest them in the host of over 500 artifacts and the extensive collection of memorabilia. As might be expected, the museum also hosts musical performances.

On the other end of the Americana spectrum is the Kennedys Museum on Pariser Platz. A large collection of Kennedy-related items (the photographs are especially fascinating), the museum has tapped further into the zeitgeist with a new exhibit examining the parallels between Barack Obama and members of the Kennedy family (primarily John F, naturally). The (oft-discussed) similarities in what each represented - hope, optimism, charm, the ushering in of a new era - will be brought front and center in the exhibit, through photos and documents with the whole affair geared towards figuring out whether these parallels are justified or not.

Art connoisseurs (and really, anyone interested in culture!) can rejoice in the treasures of the Dali Museum on Potsdamer Platz. Quaintly named 'Dali scouts' guide you through the collection of more than 400 installations that provide an overview of the Spanish artist whose works have defined the surrealist movement. An alternating selection of Dali's original work - famous as well as lesser known, but always bizarre - complement the collection.

"It happened, therefore it can happen again..."

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, inaugurated in 2005, was the result of much public debate around the world and is still somewhat controversial for singling out one group from the larger population of people who were tortured and killed in the Holocaust. Unfortunately, the media, critics and a few ignorant activists chose to shout about the fact that the memorial "ignored" "gypsies," the handicapped, and homosexuals rather than acknowledging that the German government had plans to recognize all groups through separate and unique memorials, emphasizing and "acknowledging the uniqueness of the crime and historic responsibility" of Germany's self-understanding.

Being Jewish, I was certainly aware of the atrocities committed during the holocaust. I've seen plenty of films, read dozens of articles and books, and have visited other memorials and museums in Europe and the U.S. Having come to Berlin to enjoy the city (rather than get depressed), I had originally planned to skip the memorial; plus, I felt a bit like "I had done the whole holocaust thing."

I've never been more wrong in my life.

Visiting The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe was the most moving experience I've ever had. Obviously the subject matter, films, diaries, and personal accounts inside the information center contribute greatly to the emotional experience, but the memorial's brilliant architect - Peter Eisenman - played just as large a role. His design is not simply incredible for the way in which it tells a story visually, but in the way that it affects you as you move through the memorial.

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The memorial is made of 2,711 gray concrete stelae of various heights, set in a grid pattern. The ground upon which visitors walk - between rows and down aisles, entering and exiting from any side - is uneven; full of slopes and shadows. As you make your way through you can hear other people nearby- but you can't quite tell how close they are or in which direction the sounds are coming from. Because of the way the stones are set, you're constantly aware of the fact that you could run into a stranger at any intersection at any time. For me, this involuntary ultra-heightened sense of awareness and trepidation represented a tiny speck of the fear that the Jews of Europe must have felt, never knowing what was around the corner or what fate was in store for them.

The underground Information Centre presents more traditional material about the Holocaust, albeit in a wholly modern and jarring way. As you enter, you're presented with the famous quote from Primo Levi, It happened, therefore it can happen again: this is the core of what we have to say. Each room offers something different, most through personal accounts. The way the information is presented is incredibly touching and very effective. (Bring tissues.) The experience ends at the Holocaust memorials database, where computer terminals allow you to research the fate of relatives. Needless to say, this was quite emotional for me. Although I knew that I had lost distant family, discovering seven pages of names of relatives killed was a bit of a shock.

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe is free, open Tuesday-Sunday, with audio tours and guided tours (3 Euros each) daily. For more info: www.Stiftung-denkmal.de

(Unfortunately I didn't realize it at the time so I didn't get to see it, but the Memorial to the Homosexuals Persecuted Under the National Socialist Regime is just across the street, to the west. Ask someone at the information desk to point you in the right direction.

Next :: Nightlife!

NIGHTLIFE

Like no other...

If you're looking for the most diverse, exciting, crazy, and scandalous nightlife in the world, you'll find it in Berlin. There's truly (and literally) something for everyone, and in Berlin, anything goes. Clubs are open all night (serving alcohol), people go out very late, and Berliners really, really like to party.

The best rule to keep in mind when checking out bars and clubs (and restaurants) in Berlin is to not judge a book by its cover- or in this case, not judge a club by it's exterior. Much like the people of Berlin, the city's bars and clubs aren't big on flashy presentation, labels, and looks; instead it's all about the people who go there and their personalities. In Berlin you can relax and be yourself- no matter who you are.

Given my limited time in the city, I didn't have the chance to do as comprehensive a sampling of Berlin's nightlife as I would have liked. There are just so many places to cover, catering to such an epic range of interests, that a visitor's best bet is to pick up one of the major gay magazines, the Spartacus Guide or something like the Berlin Gay Guide (look in the Resources section later in this article!) and look up the options that appear most appealing.

This year’s hot happenings

Aside from the myriad year-round offerings that Berlin serves up to its visitors and residents, the city also organizes many special events catering to a variety of interests. So many, in fact, that we dedicated a small feature to them.

Click here to see what's going on in Berlin this year.

I'll be honest; I didn't have very high expectations of Berlin before I arrived. In fact I was expecting an old, beat-up European capital whose heyday had long since passed. Instead, what I found was the exact opposite: Berlin is where it's at. This is a city whose time has come, and her residents have taken full advantage of that fact. Unfortunately I only got to spend a few days in the incredible city; I could have easily spent a week or more- and fully intend to as soon as I can manage to get back.

I have traveled the world and seen many interesting places. Paris has always been my city. After experiencing the historically fascinating, incredibly vibrant and extremely friendly city of Berlin however, gay Paree may have finally met her match.

Last page :: PRACTICAL INFO

PRACTICAL INFO

Getting there

Air Berlin is considered Germany's 'low cost carrier,' but based on my experience, it's just as good as - if not better than - most full-price airlines. If you're planning a trip to Germany, I'd highly recommend them. Air Berlin flies out of New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Fort Myers and Miami. Stiull celebrating their 30th anniversary, the airline has tons of special offers and packages, including 2-for-1 tickets and more. Check their website for details: www.AirBerlin.com

I flew in Air Berlin's business class, which was fantastic. To start with, they've got an open bar, extensive selection of audio and video entertainment, and a fabulous toiletries package- the first one I actually kept to use again. I also kept the slippers, which were comfortable and stylish; when's the last time you said that about anything having to do with an airline?

Onboard, sleep came easily; the seats are wide, comfortable, and recline to nearly-flat. The food was excellent, with a choice of four main dishes including one veggie option. My favorite part of the flight? When the flawlessly made-up flight attendant in red leather gloves offered me a gorgeous little heart-shaped chocolate as we got off the plane upon arrival. Fabulous!

Going over, you'll fly overnight, leaving the states in the evening and arriving in Germany the morning. Once you land, eat something soon, take it easy on the alcohol the first day, and get outside to get some sunshine and help reset your body clock.

The basics

The official language of Germany is... German (surprise!), however, if the only German you know is Ich bin ein Berliner, don't worry. Most people you'll meet - including everyone working in tourism - speak excellent English. A nice bitte (bitt-uh: please) and danke (dahnk-uh: thank you) will also get you far.

The euro is the official currency of Germany, credit cards are accepted just as they are in the states, and you'll even find some places (hotels, popular tourist destinations, etc.) that take American dollars. Germany also happens to be one of the more reasonable European destinations; in fact, the average price of a hotel room in Berlin is less than half the price of a similar room in Paris or London, making Germany a great choice for recession-era travel!

Getting around

Aside from being an extremely safe city, Berlin is also extremely walkable; you can easily get anywhere you want to go using your own two legs and public transportation. Their subway system is simple and efficient (it's Germany- big surprise), and buses are nearly as easy. (See below for more info.) As with most European cities however, my suggestion is to walk whenever possible- you see much more of the city that way.

Trip Planning

When planning your trip, the best place to start is Destination Germany, the National Tourist Board, and the Berlin Tourism Board The latter's City Guide covers all of the basics and offers good info on accommodations, restaurants, transportation, etc. Both sites have tons of info, as well as links for accommodations, transportation and activities, and suggestions for itineraries based on your length of stay, budget, and interests.

Resources

As soon as you get to Berlin, pick up a Berlin Welcome Card. This 47- or 72-hour pass give you unlimited access to the city's rail (S-Bahn), subway (U-Bahn), tram and bus service, plus you'll get great discounts on most of the top draws (nearly all of them are 50% off).

The other thing you'll want to pick up is the Berlin Gay Guide from Bruno Gmunder, which highlights the myriad homo-options in this seemingly all-gay city. I was amazed at the size of the guide, which aside from the info on gay restaurants, cafes, bars and clubs, is also a great guidebook for the standard must-see tourist sights as well. Definitely pick this up before you leave- you can plan your entire trip with this baby.

You'll also want to pick up an Out in Berlin brochure once you're on the ground. Published regularly, this informative guide lets you know what's going on, and where. From gay theatre to the hottest clubs - plus weekly, monthly and special events - this is where you'll find out what's happening now. For more info go to www.out-in-berlin.com or www.berlin-tourist-information.de

More gay and lesbian info can be found at www.mann-o-meter.de/ and women will find www.lesbenberatung-berlin.de helpful.