Champagne, Cava, Prosecco... it must be the holidays!

To begin with, one should know the correct terminology.

Most importantly, Champagne refers only to sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France; no other sparkling wine should be referred to as "Champagne," or "champagne," even if it's made according to the methode Champenoise.

Some additional areas of possible confusion:

When referring to sparkling wine, the word dry refers to the level of sweetness. Therefore Extra Dry, counter-intuitively, means 'extra sweet.' A sparkling wine labeled Brut is the least sweet, and also the most popular style. Typically, sparkling wine makers save their best grapes for this category.

Cuv�e identifies Champagne made from the first pressing of the best grapes. In terms of the grapes used, Blanc de blanc refers to sparkling wine made solely from white grapes, usually Chardonnay. Blanc de noir describes the use of dark-skinned grapes such as Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, usually in a blend. Outside of France, other grape varieties may be used.

Typically French Terms

Some other terms to know include a few that the French embrace wholeheartedly; less so in the rest of the world.

The aforementioned Methode Champenoise describes the method the French use to make Champagne, with the second fermentation occurring in the bottle. Only such sparkling wines produced within the Champagne region (and made in accordance with strict regulations regarding pruning, soil, harvest, bottling, and more) may be called Champagne. (And technically, only those can be referred to as being made in the Methode Champenoise, although this fact has been largely ignored outside of the region.

Sparkling wines made in France outside of the Champagne region are called cr�mant or methode traditionelle.

More Terminology

The Italians say metodo classico to describe the process they use to make their sparkling; Asti and Spumante can be made this way, or they can be made the same way as Prosecco (with the second fermentation in vats, not the bottle) called metodo Italiano.

In Spain, the in-vat fermentation process (known as the Charmat process), is used to produce a less expensive sparkling wine, but the methode champenoise can also be used to make true Cava, which has its own district. Spanish bubbly from outside that district are sometimes (erroneously) called cava, too.

Instead of Extra Dry, the sweetest Cava is called Dulce, but the Brut usage appears to be universal, as is the term "sparkling wine." In fact, the term sparkling wine is so broad that even some vintners outside of France now use the French term cr�mant to describe their sparkling wines made in the methode champenoise.

Bubbly From Around the World

Confused yet? Here's the bottom-line: The most important thing to remember is that vintners from around the world produce various forms of sparkling white, ros�, and even red wines under many different names and prices. Once everyone is done staking out their turf and terms, there's still a delicious array of sparkling wines to enjoy.

Let's get to it!

Now that we know what we're talking about, (HA!) here are some sparkling wines from around the world that are tried and true.

Do Lugar Brut, is a prosecco so reminiscent of good dry Champagne that I was surprised it wasn't French at all! It isn't Italian either- I tasted it in Brazil! Unfortunately, it's not easily available in the US...

Also from Brazil, Tributo Brut is a Champagne-style sparkling wine from Marco Luigi vineyards. Its dry, fruity effervescence always keeps me looking for another bottle.

Ode Panos Brut, from Greece, is a dry, reasonably priced ($20) bubbly with an apple nose and taste.

Next :: Italy, Australia, Spain...

Italy, Australia & Spain

Banfi Rosa Regale($20), from one of my favorite Italian wine regions - Piedmont - is a sweet red that goes especially well with bitter chocolate. In the same region of Italy, the Bottega Winery makes a charming Prosecco.

There's also a spumanti with my favorite name, PetaloIl Vino dell'Amore (Petal, The Wine of Love) that's a light and sweet seductress.

A rare red sparkling syrah, Shingleback Black Bubbles ($25), from Australia, is a lush dark-fruit surprise in your mouth. From that same continent is a very inexpensive Yellow Tail sparkling white that would do in a pinch.

I toured the Catalonia region of Northeast Spain, home of Cava, and visited the Freixenet (fresh-eh-net) offices and caves outside of Barcelona. A tasting there convinced me of the quality of this reasonably priced line of sparkling wines ($10-$150).

More recently, a delayed lunch at Blue Hill at Stone Barn (Westchester County, NY) resulted in a complimentary glass of a Freixenet Cava called Gordon ($10). I don't know if it tasted so good on its merits, or because it was free, but I liked it enough to order another glass with lunch ($85). Gordon Cava and I were certainly keeping some rich company that day!

USA - Sonoma & Finger Lakes

Elsewhere in the United States, Iron Horse Russian Cuvee from Sonoma, CA ($30) is the sparkling wine of choice in Washington diplomatic circles. Originally created for a White House event, its roots define its flavor- it's a cool and sophisticated delight, above reproach.

Gruet, a winery in New Mexico, also makes good sparkling wines. I tasted their Brut Ros� ($12) to find a berry-rich burst of flavor I'd drink again.

The Finger Lakes have many sparkling wines to try. Lamoreaux Landing Brut is a traditional dry and refreshing surprise. Who knew that Northeast sparklers could be that good!

Atwater Estate Vineyards is a personal favorite; their wines are reliably good. The 2006 Curvee Brut is made the traditional way, but they use Riesling and Gewurztraminer grapes along with the Chardonnay. Unusually fruity, it does not disappoint.

I remember a "champagne" tasting at Dr Frank's vineyard in Keuka Lake one Sunday morning. They make six varieties of "methode champenoise" sparkling wine ranging from $20 to $35. I dutifully spit out the first glass, and almost managed the second before I realized that it was simply too good to expectorate. The remaining glasses were savored.

Sunday morning champagne could only taste better if a handsome young man served it to me in bed!

Long Island & Cocktails

The farthest end of Long Island produces some delightful bubbly, too. Onabay's Blanc de Brut ($36) is a crisp chardonnay-based sparkling wine that's very easy on the palate.

Sparkling Pointe is remarkable, as a vineyard dedicated to producing only sparkling wines. Their Topaz Imperial ($33), a light ros�, is an excellent example of such dedication paying off.

The Old Field's Blanc de Noir is an unusual 100% Pinot Noir sparkling wine, dry and very refreshing! In addition, each of these vineyards has other similarly priced sparkling wines of quality that I have yet to taste. (If you've tried them, please leave a comment below!)

When You Don't Like The Taste...

Sometimes an inexpensive wine works best as the primary ingredient in a cocktail. Wine cocktails are the subject of a future article, but for now, think about adding a little fruit juice, such as orange or cranberry, or a liqueur, such as triple sec or fruit brandy to sparkling wine.

My personal favorite for "jazzing up" lesser quality Champagne is Bergamot. Just a quarter inch of this clear liqueur in the bottom of a flute brightens any bubbly. (As much as I like the flavor, it would be a shame to contaminate the best French Champagne with any such additives.)

Speaking of...

Next up :: France

French Champagne & Crémant

For some special occasions, going back to the roots - France - is recommended. The Simonnet-Febvre Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Methode Traditionelle ($20) is a crisp uncomplicated refreshment. Any of the small vineyard Champagnes are worth a shot - if you can find them. I tasted several when I toured the region.

Both the Marcel Vezien Celles sur Ource Blanc de Blanc and the Baslieux sous Chatillon Brut Excellence were memorable. Unfortunately, many of them don't get distributed in the US; if you're lucky enough to find one, grab it.

For the top-of-the-line champagnes, Krug Grande Cuvee (about $150 for a non-vintage bottle) is a good choice. I first tasted this masterpiece in the Berkshires, at Blantyre, a Grand Chef Relais & Ch�teaux inn at Lenox, Massachusetts. Krug is quietly elegant, as is Blantyre, and makes an understated and refreshing aperitif. A blend of 50 wines from 6-10 different years, Krug consistently delivers a full and complex taste.

Taittinger & Mumms

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne at about $200, is heavenly. I first tasted this in Reims, France, in the Taittinger cellars with Jacob Tattinger. Last summer I stayed at The Point, another exclusive Relais & Ch�teaux inn on Upper Saranac Lake in the Adirondacks. Taittinger was the only champagne they serve, and they had bottles chilling in each of their three bars. Even the "emergency bar" always had a bottle on ice. (You have to love an inn that has an emergency bar!)

Mumms Brut Cordon Rouge ($30) is always reliable. I've been known to open a split after work just for myself. It's that good!

Moët & Chandon

Lastly, Mo�t & Chandon produce many champagnes, including their premium named in honor of the monk, Dom Perignon. The Brut ($150) is a delightfully dry entry from the acknowledged father of the Methode Champenoise. Dom Perignon is credited with this poem, which makes a great toast:

As a final note, the declining world economy reduced the demand for higher-end sparkling wines and French champagnes, which caused them to become a glut on the market. The move to expand the Champagne District in France, a decision made before the downturn - when Champagne sales were at record heights - will also contribute to the overstock. Reduced prices and special pricing will be the result.

For New England readers, the already expanded sales area created within the New Hampshire State Liquor store (almost a separate Sparkling Wine Store in itself) is proving so successful that other Champagne Outlets will begin to appear elsewhere in the US; look for softer prices and a wider selection. The time is definitely right to develop a taste for this nectar of the gods.